JacksonLAURIE

Home/Repair/Lubricating a Leica

Repair Guide / Leica

Lubricating a Leica

The specific lubricants used in Leica M cameras, where they go, and how much to use. Getting this wrong is how you ruin a shutter.

Overview

Lubricating a Leica M is not complicated, but it requires using the right lubricants in the right places in the right amounts. The wrong lubricant in the wrong place -- particularly on the shutter curtains or the slow-speed governor -- will cause problems that are worse than no lubrication at all.

The most common mistake is using too much lubricant. Excess lubricant migrates. It gets on the shutter curtains, causing them to stick. It gets on the rangefinder optics, causing haze. It gets into the slow-speed governor, causing the slow speeds to run fast. Less is always more.

I've been lubricating Leica M cameras for fifteen years. The lubricants I use are the ones that have worked consistently. There are other options, but these are the ones I trust.

In Florida, I pay particular attention to lubricant selection. The heat here can cause some lubricants to thin out and migrate more than they would in a cooler climate. I use lubricants that are stable across a wide temperature range.

Tools needed

--Molykote DX paste (slow-speed governor)
--Nye Lubricants Tribolube 22 (shutter curtain rails)
--Nye Lubricants Tribolube 15 (film advance mechanism)
--Light machine oil (Moebius 9010 or equivalent) for pivot points
--Watchmaker's screwdrivers
--Fine brush (size 0 or 00)
--Sharpened toothpicks for precise application
--Cotton swabs
--Naphtha for cleaning

Procedure

01

Clean before lubricating

Remove all old lubricant before applying new. Use naphtha on cotton swabs to clean the mechanisms. Allow to dry completely. Applying new lubricant over old is a common mistake -- the old lubricant is often contaminated and will degrade the new lubricant.

02

Slow-speed governor

Apply a very small amount of Molykote DX to the governor pivot points using a sharpened toothpick. The amount should be barely visible -- a dot smaller than a pinhead at each pivot. The governor is the most sensitive part of the camera to over-lubrication.

03

Shutter curtain rails

Apply a thin, even coat of Tribolube 22 to the rails that the shutter curtains run on. Use a fine brush. The coat should be thin enough that you can barely see it. Wipe off any excess immediately.

04

Shutter cocking mechanism

The cocking mechanism has several pivot points that benefit from a small amount of light machine oil. Apply with a fine brush or a sharpened toothpick. A single drop of oil spread across the pivot points is sufficient.

05

Film advance mechanism

The film advance ratchet and the associated gears benefit from a small amount of Tribolube 15. Apply sparingly. The advance should feel smooth and positive after lubrication.

06

Rangefinder cam

The rangefinder cam -- the part that translates lens movement into rangefinder patch movement -- benefits from a very thin coat of light machine oil. Apply with a fine brush. Too much oil here will migrate onto the rangefinder optics.

07

Rewind mechanism

The rewind knob and the associated mechanism benefit from a small amount of light machine oil at the pivot points. The rewind should feel smooth and consistent.

08

Verify and test

After lubricating, cycle the shutter and film advance repeatedly to distribute the lubricant. Test shutter speeds with a tester. Check that the slow speeds are running correctly. Verify rangefinder alignment.

Warnings

!

Never apply lubricant to the shutter curtains themselves. Only the rails that the curtains run on.

!

Never apply lubricant near the rangefinder optics. Even a small amount of oil on the beam splitter or mirrors will cause haze.

!

The slow-speed governor is the most sensitive part. If you apply too much lubricant, the slow speeds will run fast. If this happens, clean the governor and start over.

!

Molykote DX is a paste, not an oil. Do not substitute oil for the governor. The viscosity characteristics are different and oil will not work correctly.

Notes

I source my lubricants from dedicated camera repair suppliers. The lubricants available at hardware stores are not suitable for precision camera mechanisms.

The lubricants I use are the same ones used by professional Leica repair technicians. They're not cheap, but a small quantity lasts for years.

In Florida, I've found that cameras stored in hot conditions sometimes have lubricant that has thinned and migrated. These cameras need a more thorough cleaning than cameras stored in cooler conditions.

After lubricating a Leica, I always run a test roll before returning the camera to regular use. The lubricant needs to distribute through the mechanisms, and the first few rolls will confirm that everything is working correctly.

Related

Back to all repair guides →